JollyPint
Farmhouse Pumpkin

Farmhouse Pumpkin

A pumpkin beer that skips the pie-spice cliche entirely and calls itself a Wallonian-style farmhouse ale instead is either overthinking a seasonal gimmick or the only pumpkin beer worth taking seriously this year.

Most pumpkin beers exist to remind you it's basically still summer while smelling like a candle aisle. Farmhouse Pumpkin skips that trick entirely and builds itself around a Wallonian-style saison instead, which is a genuinely unusual base for a style that normally just wants to taste like pie filling.

The ingredient list backs up the ambition: Virginia-grown sugar pie pumpkins from Snake Creek Farms, whole nutmeg, clove, and allspice from a Richmond spice company, fresh ginger root from a Powhatan farm, all built on classic saison yeast at 8.5 percent ABV. That's a lot of local sourcing for a beer some breweries would just flavor with extract and call it a day. The saison yeast esters carry the spice rather than fighting it, landing on a soft mouthfeel and what Hardywood calls "rustic fall flavors" - restrained, not candied.

It's on draft and in 4-packs at both Hardywood taprooms now. A pumpkin beer this committed to its own farmhouse pedigree in the middle of August is either premature or exactly on schedule, depending on how you feel about fall arriving early.